Author Topic: Whitney Gilman  (Read 1386 times)

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Gatto

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Whitney Gilman
« on: November 23, 2012, 09:53:31 AM »
Met up with Mike Allen in the parking lot at the bottom of Cannon Cliff at 7.00. We walked the whole length of the cliff. The sun was hitting the wall so we put the helmets on, sum ice was starting to fall. By the time we reached the start of the Whitney the ice was falling out of the Black Dike at a good rate. We stayed close to the wall behind a bulge.We put the harnesses on,and all the time  taking fire from the ice. Mike lead the first pitch with gloves, soon he was in the sun. While I was belaying a large chunk off ice came crashing down, the rope was out from the protection of the bulge and a rock the size of your head missed the rope by three feet, Mike yelled to see if everything was OK. I was to start climbing for two reasons, being out of the line of fire and getting into sun. The jackets came off the climbing was perfect, all the time there was the rumbling of falling ice coming from the Dike. When we hit the pipe pitch, Mike was impressed with the view down into the Black Dike. This part of the climb was in the shade the rock was cold which made the crux harder. Breathing a sigh of relief and back in sun we continued two more pitches to the top, were we sat in the sun and had lunch. The walk down is steep and on the left side of the cliff.     
« Last Edit: November 30, 2012, 08:45:38 PM by Gatto »

Tim Oglesby

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Re: Whitney Gilman
« Reply #1 on: November 23, 2012, 11:14:52 AM »
good for you guys.

surf88

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Re: Whitney Gilman
« Reply #2 on: November 23, 2012, 10:20:26 PM »
Nice job on telling the story.  Yikes about the rock!
“Hey, is anyone up for a really stupid adventure? I sorta have an idea where we’re going, but really don’t know if we’ll get there or how this will work out. You have a headlamp right?”
 
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Tim Oglesby

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Re: Whitney Gilman
« Reply #3 on: November 23, 2012, 10:39:10 PM »
Hay  who lead the pipe pitch anyway?

Gatto

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Re: Whitney Gilman
« Reply #4 on: November 30, 2012, 08:55:17 PM »
Just a few pictures.

Tim Oglesby

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Re: Whitney Gilman
« Reply #5 on: December 01, 2012, 01:07:52 PM »
what is the black dyke like to ice climb? any pictures of the pipe pitch area?

Gatto

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Re: Whitney Gilman
« Reply #6 on: December 01, 2012, 01:27:42 PM »
The Black Dike has become one of the  most sought after ice climbs in the east , making it one of the most crowded routes.  IV  NEI  4+/5-          The last picture is Mikes rack and looking down from the pipe.

surf88

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Re: Whitney Gilman
« Reply #7 on: December 01, 2012, 04:17:43 PM »
I'm glad you put up some pictures, I was gonna ask  if you had any.  I really want to climb that one some day.
“Hey, is anyone up for a really stupid adventure? I sorta have an idea where we’re going, but really don’t know if we’ll get there or how this will work out. You have a headlamp right?”
 
My Blog:
http://www.outdoortripreports.com/posts/

Gatto

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Re: Whitney Gilman
« Reply #8 on: December 01, 2012, 07:58:51 PM »
We will !